4 Ways to “Ruin” Your Weekend in Greece’s Second City

Admit it: you thought all the ruins were in Athens. You thought that Thessaloniki — if you thought about it at all — was a place where there was a lot of good stuff but not much in the way of ancient relics, right? Wrong!

Much as you might like to party like Paris Hilton on a Greek island all summer, you know that there is more to see in Greece than Mykonos. Athens has cultural wealth and sun to spare, but the pull of Thessaloniki is something different. The Greek capital sometimes succumbs to a touristy vibe that is altogether absent in Greece’s second city, just 190 miles to the north. That makes Thessaloniki, which is the capital of Greek Macedonia and named for the half-sister of Alexander the Great, something of a secret.

Coke? Jesus? OK! Image: AG


The city’s past is denser and more layered than a flourless dark chocolate cake and sometimes as bittersweet: Students of Second World War history will recall Thessaloniki as a place whose large Jewish population was decimated by the Nazis. Did you know that this city was home to the largest Jewish cemetery in the Mediterranean until the Nazis destroyed it? It may not seem easy to destroy 300,000 tombstones, but the Germans made quick work of that — and that was the “nice” part. In 1943, virtually the entire Jewish population of Thessaloniki, numbering 46,091, was hauled off to Auschwitz in cattle cars — a couple of which are preserved on the periphery of the city’s train station. There were 19 meticulously organized transfers. Only 1,950 Jews would return to the city of whose fabric their community had been a vital part for more than 21 centuries. 


In certain periods in time, it was the one of the highest populations in the city, especially after 1492. The first Jews came around 140 B.C. from Alexandria, the so-called Romaniote Jews. The arrival of almost 20,000 Jewish newcomers deported from Spain, though, was what altered the face of the city. Through their skills and abilities, the (‘Sephardites’) revived the wounded Thessaloniki after its conquest by the Ottomans and contributed to its commercial ascent. In 1870, the 50,000 Jewish residents constituted 56 percent of the Thessalonian population, while in 1941, 36 synagogues were fully functioning. The city’s oldest synagogue burned in the 1917 fire that leveled much of the historic center. The Nazis destroyed all the others save one, the Monastirioton Synagogue, which was built in 1927 and has been beautifully restored. I went inside to take a peek: very light and bright.

Inside the Temple. Image: Anthony Grant

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Postcards from Israel For My Father on His Early Spring Birthday, with no mention of numbers or dates

Because it’s my blog, and I’ll turn it into a birthday card if I want to! This is an old building in Jaffa, probably built during Turkish times i.e. a really long time ago. But wait, this is more about my … Continue reading Postcards from Israel For My Father on His Early Spring Birthday, with no mention of numbers or dates

Five Places Where You Need To Be Kissed

Five places where you need to be kissed now — and why not? Perhaps you didn’t think of Israel as a romantic destination, and maybe it isn’t. But were the likes of Paris and Venice ever elected capitals of love by free and democratic election? No. And my vote’s on Israel for places that will surprise you with the power to wow you, and if that isn’t a recipe for romance, then good God I don’t know what is. So from the towers of Tel Aviv to the desert sands of the Negev, here are some choice spots in Israel … Continue reading Five Places Where You Need To Be Kissed

To Hebron for the Weekend?

Travel magazines and newspaper travel sections, not to mention blogs, regularly run stories about Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and lots of other places in the Holy Land. Not many go very deep on West Bank coverage, politically freighted as it is. I myself think it would be very interesting to visit places like Hebron, but it does take some logistics and I just haven’t gotten around to it. However, this guy did.   Continue reading To Hebron for the Weekend?